Determinants of Climbing Performance

In 1993, a study performed by Watts and colleagues suggested that amoungst elite climbers there may be number of intrinsic physical attritbutes which substantiate their abilities. These included measurements such as the ape index; which is a ratio of a persons arm span relative to their height, arm and hand volumes, experience, age, height to weight ratio and a host of others. Whilst commonalities were found between the climbers, these climbers were already elite athletes and as a result, statistical inference pertaining to the prediction of their abilities was confounded...

Since then, a greater body of research has been developed. From this research has come three simple, yet highly trainable physical attributes as proponents of climbing ability:

• One: Maximal Grip Strength (3)
• Two: Low body fat percentage (3)
• Three: Climbing time to exhaustion (1) + re-oxygenation during rest phases (2)

So what does this mean?



For me at leat, it says that:

1. We should train maximal grip strength. Aim to get the most out of those little forearm muscles!!!!
2. Optimise body composition through diet and supplementary aerobic exercise. Reduce unessessary muscle and body fat (~5-10% for men ~ 15-20% for women)
3. After making a strength gain always consolodate by building a strong endurance base at that particular grade. Both high and low intensity endurance training will build capillary density, increase anaerobic efficiency and increase ones VO2. This training will have two effects:
1. It increases the length of time we can climb before becoming pumped
2. It decreases our reocovery time between climbs and or moves on a climb. Therefore, we will be able to utilise rest positions on a particular climb in the most efficient and benefically way

Finally, I should point out that this is merely a description of the physical characteristics associated with rock climbing. Problem solving, technique and skill sets are equally important and should be developed concurrently to maximise ones climbing capacity

Happy climbing

Hugh :-)

References:

1. España-Romero, V., Porcel, F., Enrique G., A., Jiménez-Pavón, D., Sainz, Á., Castillo Garzón, M. J., & Ruiz, J. R. (2009). Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers. European Journal Of Applied Physiology, 107(5), 517-525.
2. Macleod, D. D., Sutherland, D. L., Buntin, L. L., Whitaker, A. A., Aitchison, T. T., Watt, I. I., & ... Grant, S. S. (2007). Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. Journal Of Sports Sciences, 25(12), 1433-1443.
3. Mermier, C. M., Janot, J. M., Parker, D. L., & Swan, J. G. (2000). Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. / Determinants physiologiques et anthropometriques de la performance en escalade sportive. British Journal Of Sports Medicine, 34(5), 359-366.
4. Watts, P. B., Martin, D. T., & Durtschi, S. S. (1993). Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers. Journal Of Sports Sciences, 11(2), 113-117.